When a Top Chef Comes to Haapsalu – Roman Zaštšerinski at Old Hapsal Hotel
Roman Zaštšerinski brought the flavours of summer and pure professionalism to the kitchen of Old Hapsal Hotel.
This is an evening filled with refined tastes and people who share a love for learning in the kitchen.
Each dish is a story, bringing together the spirit of Haapsalu and the highest level of culinary craftsmanship.
When top chef Roman Zaštšerinski steps into your kitchen, one thing is certain – there is much to learn.
And where else do you truly learn, if not from the very best in the field?
This time, Roman arrives in Haapsalu together with Sergei, head chef of Kolm Sibulat. From the collaboration of these two chefs emerges a true masterclass – an explosion of flavours.
A Kitchen That Runs Like Clockwork
Watching the interaction and division of work between the two chefs is a pleasure in itself. Everything moves like a perfectly synchronised Rolex mechanism – fast, precise, and incredibly stylish.
I have seen all kinds of hustle in my own kitchen, but such pure and elegant kitchen work is something I have rarely, if ever, witnessed.
Roman and Sergei make no unnecessary movements; every action has purpose, and the result is simply exquisite.
Even our son and kitchen assistant Lukas — who until now has carefully avoided mushrooms — praised Roman’s Sicilian-style chanterelle arancini to the skies.
If that isn’t something wonderful, then what is?
A Room Filled with Laughter and Stories from Life
Between courses, Roman steps into the dining room to speak about simple things: life and family, the kitchen and cooking, mishaps behind the stove, children and everyday moments.
One would hardly expect that the head chef of top restaurant Moon would turn into a genuine stand-up comedian the moment he leaves the kitchen for the dining room.
The room fills with laughter as people recognise themselves in his stories — stories rich in honesty and sincerity, touching every one of us.
Among the guests is also Wend, aka Priit Kuusk, whose very first “job” as a chef — during the television series Köögikodanikud — took place at restaurant Ö, led by Roman himself.
Listening to the conversation between the two of them, one could happily linger for hours: memories, humour, and an honest look behind the scenes of a top chef’s life.
Roman Today – A Master Whose Calm Is Contagious
The Roman of today is very different from the man who once led the kitchen at Ö.
He is balanced, warm, and carries an immense wealth of experience — a person who does not raise his voice in the kitchen even by a fraction. And honestly, there is no reason to: the day before, the team had catered for 200 guests at Moon, making our dinner for 42 guests a pleasantly calm change of pace for them.
Roman fills our kitchen with humour and inspiring thoughts. A passionate motorcyclist, he took a ride to Haapsalu a few weeks before the dinner to sense what might inspire the evening. He found it — the sea and the Haapsalu pike became the guiding themes of our night.
The Menu – Summer Flavours, Roman’s Way
Amuse-Bouche
Chanterelle Arancini with Truffle Crème Pâtissière
Salasar Crémant de Limoux Brut Vintage 2022
Oddbird Blanc de Blancs, Languedoc – Roussillon (0%)
Starter
Lightly Cured Hake, Dill Aioli, Fresh Horseradish, Rye Muesli
Salasar Crémant de Limoux Brut Vintage 2022
Oddbird Blanc de Blancs, Languedoc – Roussillon (0%)
Intermezzo
Lamb Bresaola, Pine Milkcap Mushroom Salad, Pomegranate
Maison Champy Cuvée Edme Pinot Noir, Bourgogne 2023
Oddbird GSM, Languedoc – Roussillon (0%)
Main Course
Pike Kiev, Potato Cream, Pickled Butternut Squash
Laroche St Martin Chablis AOC 2024 (magnum)
Oddbird Riesling/Viogner, Languedoc – Roussillon (0%)
Sweet Finish
Apple Confit, Lingonberries, Vanilla Cream, Jerusalem Artichoke
Ecusson Cidre Bio Doux, Normandia
Galipette Cidre, Normandia (0%)
An Evening That Tastes Like Life Itself
As the last plates make their way back from the dining room at the end of the evening, a warm sense of gratitude lingers. When the finest masters of their craft step into your kitchen and share their knowledge and ideas, it becomes something far greater than cooking alone. For our team, it is a celebration filled with learning and recognition — culinary art is truly a beautiful art.
Thank you, Roman Zaštšerinski and Sergei, and thank you to all the guests who came and shared in this memorable evening at Old Hapsal Hotel.
And heartfelt thanks to photographer Vendo Jugapuu for capturing the spirit of the night.
